Cyprus: Here We Go Again

Hello! It has been some time since we have written but it has also been some time since we have gone on a trip! Recently we traveled to the beautiful island country of Cyprus for spring break. If this place sounds familiar that's because we went to this country for our spring break last year. This time around we went to the city of Larnaca and we brought a friend along.

We landed in the city on a Sunday to warm weather and cloudy skies. After picking up our rental car and adjusting to driving on the other side of the street we checked into our AirBnB on the beach. Shortly after settling in to our place, it began to rain. Although the beginning of our vacation began a little wet we were still excited to explore our beautiful host country. Later that night after the streets had dried a bit we went to a local Cypriot Tavern and ate some yummy traditional food.

The next morning we woke to bright sunny weather for breakfast. Because the weather was warm we decided it was a perfect day to explore the city of Larnaca. April 1st is a national holiday so we were welcomed with good vibes from locals and festive displays around different landmarks. The main street ran along Finikoudes beach, a gorgeous beach next to the marina. There were palm trees and flags waving in the warm breezes. We marveled at the architecture on our walk along the beach. There was a Medieval fort next to modern apartment buildings further down we found Venetian style public building.

Further into the city we found Greek style architecture houses of various ages. While exploring we found a wine shop called The Oak Tree Wine Cellar and Tasting Room, that offered a tasting of local Cypriot wines. We tried 9 wines with the majority being made from native Cypriot grape varieties. We also tried a desert wine that had been produced under the same label since the crusades (since about the 14th century). We ended our tasting with a local orange liqueur. Chris and I and our friend left with a bottle of liqueur to bring home. After some lunch we found the Church of Saint Lazarus. This Byzantine style church is the crown jewel of the city of Larnaca. This Greek Orthodox church is still in operation and reminded me of churches that we have found in Bulgaria. After exploring we went back to our place to sit out the rain and rest for the next day.

Larnaca is not only home beautiful Mediterranean beaches but also a rather large salt lake and marsh. On Tuesday our crew drove out to the salt lake to see if we could spot a few flamingos and hike around a bit. We did spot a few birds but the most fascinating thing we got to explore was the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque. Similar to Bulgaria, Cyprus was once under Ottoman rule and because the main religion of the empire was Islam, a few mosques were built. We were amazed that the mosque still stood, considering Cyprus' recent history. We were able to go inside and we noticed a stark difference between the plain interior of the mosque as opposed to the gilded altar we saw at the St. Lazarus church the day before. After we were done at the salt lake we took off to view the Medieval Castle of Larnaca. This fortified castle served to protect the city and even worked as a jail for some time. Soon after we were done at the castle it began to rain so we went to our place and waited out the rain.

On the Wednesday of our trip, Chris and I drove to the ruins of Ancient Kourion. In order to get to this ancient site we had to cross a border into the United Kingdom. Yeah you read that right. The United Kingdom has claim to quite a bit of territory on Cyprus. Most of this territory surrounds military bases and towns nearby. Even though we left to another country, we would have never known unless Google maps had told us. There is no check-point, wall or any form of passport control. It was quite thrilling if bureaucracy interests you. The site however was ancient and beautiful.

The day we were there was the most beautiful day we spent in the country. The most prominent sites sat at the edge of a cliff and had a beautiful view of the Mediterranean Sea and rolling green fields. There were many prominent houses that contained well preserved mosaic floors as well as many flowers growing between the cracks. The crown jewel of the site is a renovated theater that is still used on special occasions. I'm sure the performances would be amazing but I was mesmerized once again by the view. The ancient town also included a vast Roman Agora. It had the hallmarks of a fine large market but also a large bath spa system. True to the form of ancient sites the Agora was repurposed to an early Byzantine basilica. The small city unfortunately met its end in an earthquake in the 4th century.

After we had exhausted ourselves we left for an olive park. The Oleastro Olive Park is dedicated to teaching visitors about the production of olive oil in Cyprus. The complex produces its own oil using organic olives grown in the area by local farmers. Within the grounds we found many different types of olives and a very animated donkey. After a quick snack and a purchase of the olive oil produced at the park we headed back to Larnaca. We made a quick stop at a monastery popping out of the ruins of a Basilica. It was a great day to see more of what our host country had to offer.

Thursday the 4th our entire group took a road trip to the capital; Nicosia. Now before I continue I must give you a little note on the capital. I won't go to far into the history of the place but as we have stated many times before the country is split in two and the capital reflects the state of the country. Through the middle of the twentieth century Cyprus saw unrest among the different ethnic groups with in the island. With various crises, a coup d'état, and other outside influences, both political and religious, Greek and Turkish; the hope for peace in the country was dashed in 1974 when Turkish military forces invaded the island and clashed with the Greek forces. Thanks to interference by the United Nations (UN), the country became split between the two ethnicities with the Turks in the north and the Greeks in the south. In hopes to bring peace to the region the UN set up a buffer zone, referred to as the "Green Line," through the middle of the country and through the middle of the capital city. Although the dust has settled since then and some crossings are beginning to open again, the capital is still that last divided capital in the world and is still occupied at all times by UN forces.

We entered the city with all this in mind but we were blown away and the combination of modern, medieval and ancient all within a few blocks. The older buildings stood out as they were built of sun soaked sandstone. We walked down the main pedestrian area of Ledra Street admiring the shops when we ran into the Ledra Street crossing. It was our first glance at the division in the country and it was and abrupt awareness that everything we had read about the city was indeed true. We did not continue on to the other side of the crossing but continued to explore the side streets stumbling upon a Greek Orthodox Church. After a quick bit to eat we left the main street to the sounds of the call to prayer, heading toward the edge of the Medieval walled city. We found an old UN crossing and a Catholic church located in the buffer zone. Around the corner we found the old gate that led into the Medieval city and the walls and road leading to it. Soon we left Nicosia with plenty on our minds. It was an experience that we enjoyed but it was time to relax before we had to leave our enchanting vacation.

The next day we rested and enjoyed the beach before a powerful storm rolled in. After the rain finished we enjoyed a wonderful meal at a local restaurant. The next and final day we spent it relaxing once again. We went out one last time to treat ourselves to a meze. A wonderful menu with a sampling of all sorts of traditional Cypriot dishes. It was a great way to end a wonderful trip. Cyprus definitely holds a special place in our hearts and we will have to see when we can go back.